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Silk weaving under threat in India

In mythical Varanasi, formerly Benares, thousands of hands continue to weave silk as in the 19th century. A know-how now threatened that Indian and French master craftsmen are trying to save.

To discover this timeless craft, you have to go deep into the dirty and narrow alleys of the Adampur district, in Varanasi. By straining the ear near certain windows, one hears a characteristic rattling.

19th century French machines

It is the sound of the impressive Jacquard machines, named after the Frenchman Joseph Marie Jacquard, who imagined them at the beginning of the 19th century, before they went around the world. In 2022, they still resonate, under the hands of the weavers of Varanasi.

In the dark, a worker runs his hands along a weaving loom, resembling the sail of a boat. I am working on a silk sari, it will take me ten days, explains Mohamed Safi, a member of this predominantly Muslim guild. I learned the trade from my father and have been practicing it for 26 years.

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